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What should be done first when renovating old public housing?
The correct order of pipes, wires, waterproofing, flooring, and furniture.
Major renovation of public housing units over 20 years old!
Reject unfinished renovations and rework; remember the five-step construction method of "framework first, then details".
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Design is about warmth; living is about attitude.
30-second summary of key points
The most common problems in old housing estates are: rusted and leaking iron pipes, aging and insufficient load capacity of aluminum wires, failure of kitchen and bathroom waterproofing layers, and powdering of old wall lime.
The ironclad rule for the correct construction sequence: Demolition and preparation → Replacement of copper hoses and rewiring of the entire house → Water testing and waterproofing of kitchen and bathroom → Leveling and tiling → Painting and furniture installation.
Do not spend all your budget on surface woodwork and neglect concealed wiring and piping. Otherwise, if there are leaks or tripped valves after moving in, the entire new furniture may have to be demolished.
Core Decisions and Anti-Ambush Checklist
Construction phase
Core process content
Prevention of hidden dangers and pain points
Acceptance pass indicators
Phase One:
Demolition and Survey
Remove old and aging furniture, and remove hollow floor tiles down to the structural layer.
Old concrete and concrete were found to have peeled off and steel reinforcement was exposed.
Complete the cleaning of the base and confirm that there are no new cracks in the original structure.
Second stage:
Concealed hydropower works
The entire house was replaced with seamless copper hoses bearing British standards and re-stretched flame-retardant single-core wiring.
Water pipe connection leakage, electrical circuit overload.
Completed 24-hour pressure test (>8 bar) and insulation resistance test.
Phase Three:
Mud and Waterproofing
Apply flexible waterproof coating to the shower enclosure walls up to a height of 1.8 meters and level the shower base.
Pinholes or poor overlap in the waterproofing layer can cause water seepage from the ceiling below.
A 48-hour water storage and shut-off test was completed, confirming no leaks downstairs.
Phase Four:
Painting and woodwork
The entire house was plastered three times, sanded smooth, and then sprayed with moisture-proof latex paint.
The walls became damp, bubbling and crumbling; the door frames warped.
Inspection under sidelight reveals no rippling; the sealed edge is straight and uniform.
Fifth stage:
Custom furniture installation
Factory prefabrication, on-site assembly and finishing.
On-site sawing dust pollution and dimensional error deviation
All drawer door hinges open and close silently and smoothly, sealing tightly against the wall.
Follow along step by step: Standard operating procedure
01
Safety inspection of the entire house after complete water and power outage.
Turn off the main water valve and main power switch, check the incoming water pressure and the specifications of the electrical box, and confirm whether it is necessary to apply to CLP Power/HK Electric for a larger meter.
Tip: Households with high electricity consumption are advised to upgrade to a 60A meter.
02
Shovel the bottom and remove the old pipes.
The old exposed and concealed pipes were uprooted, and the old, loose cement layer was knocked away to expose the solid structural layer.
Tip: Take strict precautions to prevent drain blockages.
03
Plumbing and electrical layout and water pipe pressure testing
Inspection under sidelight reveals no rippling; the sealed edge is straight and uniform.
Tip: When testing water pipes, maintain a pressure of 8-10 bar and take photos to record the meter readings.
04
Kitchen and bathroom are waterproofed three times and have a 48-hour water-tight seal.
The corners of the walls should be coated with curved edges, and the waterproof coating on the tank should be applied to a height of no less than 180cm. After 48 hours of water storage, the lower layer should be confirmed with the management office to ensure there is no leakage.
Tip: Waterproofing is the part of the whole house renovation where you shouldn't skimp on money.
05
Laying wear-resistant bricks and painting/plastering the entire house.
The floor is laid with non-slip, low-absorption wood-grain tiles or SPC flooring, and the walls are painted with mildew-resistant, washable, and crack-resistant latex paint.
Tip: Apply the topcoat only after the primer has completely dried to avoid moisture causing peeling.
06
Custom-made furniture delivery and bathroom hardware installation
After the furniture is installed, apply mildew-resistant neutral silicone sealant to seal the edges, and then install the toilet, shower, water heater, and all the lights in the house.
Tip: Finally, conduct ventilation and deep formaldehyde removal testing.
TL Home Space Magic Perspective
How can designers simplify complex designs?
External beautification and enclosure of culvert
In old housing estates, vertical sewage mains that cannot often be demolished are often encased in wooden gratings or light steel frames, which also serve as display niches.
From visible to invisible, top channel
If the ceiling cannot be chiseled, simple plaster ceiling moldings or very narrow aluminum strips can be used to hide the wires along the ceiling, creating a neat and aesthetically pleasing look.
This FAQ is a quick and easy guide.
Q: How long does it typically take to renovate an entire old public housing unit?
A: Complete demolition, replacement of all plumbing and electrical systems, including masonry and custom furniture, typically takes 2.5 to 3 months for a standard 300 sq ft public housing unit. If it involves rainy season flood testing or large custom furniture production, it is advisable to allow an additional 3 months for a more secure process.
Q: Is it better to use a clear or hidden throat for a water tap?
A: Concealed wiring looks neat and tidy, but requires grooves; exposed wiring is easier to maintain and has lower installation costs. T.L Home usually recommends concealed wiring in the living room and concealed exposed wiring in the kitchen and bathroom back panels, combining aesthetics and maintenance flexibility.
Q: There are elderly people living in the house. Should I report to the Housing Department if I renovate the old bathtub into a bathtub?
A: Yes. The Housing Department offers a free service to elderly or mobility-impaired residents to convert bathtubs into showers and install handrails; if a private designer is hired for the renovation, a form must be completed and submitted to the Estate Office.
The above information is for reference only, and our company assumes no legal responsibility whatsoever.
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